One of the reasons why the Charleston area offers so many fine dining experiences is because so much of the food is grown locally.

Johns Island has always served as the agricultural heart of the area—and in more recent years, the backyard garden for the region’s many renowned chefs. In fact, much of the produce that distinguishes the unique flavors of Lowcountry cuisine is grown on Johns Island.

Johns Island lies due west of the Charleston peninsula, serving as a “gateway” island for its more famous neighbors, Kiawah and Seabrook. Technically an island because it’s surrounded by the Intracoastal Waterway, Stono River, Kiawah River and Bohicket Creek, Johns Island is protected from the ocean by the islands surrounding it.



With fertile acreage that stretches across the 217 square miles of still largely undeveloped sea island, Johns Island grows the premium vegetables that distinguish the seasonal and year-round menu items served in Lowcountry restaurants. Peas, squash, eggplant, peppers, green beans, spinach, sweet corn, okra, pumpkins, collard greens, butter beans, broccoli, cucumbers, Brussels sprouts, zucchini, potatoes, asparagus and a variety of different lettuces make their way to stove tops throughout the area. Instead of after two or three days on a truck, Lowcountry restaurants receive the produce freshly picked.
 With the growing demand, several Johns Island farmers have stepped up to the plate to offer organically grown produce to area groceries and restaurants. That trend is expected to continue.

Johns Island is the largest tomato producer in the country, with a wide variety of different types of tomatoes suited to the area. Everything from the tried and true old faithful and heirloom varieties to the hot new designer varieties grow well in the hot, humid Lowcountry climate. And Wadmalaw sweet onions, which are also grown on Johns Island, are said to rival Vidalia onions for their sweetness and distinctive flavor.

A variety of herbs are also grown on the island. Sage, thyme, chervil, sorrel, rosemary, cilantro, red giant mustard and Italian parsley are just a few of the fresh herbs that give Lowcountry cuisine its unique flavor. And local dessert fare often includes fresh strawberries, blueberries, melons and other fruits that grow well on the island.

Fatty food, the image of Southern food during the 20th century, was primarily a result of the poverty following the War Between the States. Historically, Charleston’s cuisine was heavily influenced by early French settlers.

New Southern Cooking

Began in 1971

The New Southern movement, which is currently grabbing headlines, began in 1971 when Nathalie Dupree, now Charleston’s acclaimed culinary star, opened a restaurant near Atlanta.

Her cooking school, the largest in the South, opened in 1975 at Rich’s Department Store. She directed it for nearly ten years, training more than 10,000 students. In 1982, she published her first of 11 cookbooks — Cooking of the South.

Other names identified with the movement came a bit later. Robert Stehling, chef/owner of Hominy Grill, says he was influenced by Bill Neal, a former student of Nathalie’s. When Frank Stitt, whose first restaurant served French food, opened Highlands Bar and Grill in Birmingham in 1982, Nathalie’s students worked in his kitchen and sold him bread, and the restaurant became more Southern.

“Almost every restaurant in the South now has a touch of New Southern, even though they may not know it,” says Nathalie. She defines it as using traditional ingredients in new ways and preparing “new” ingredients in old ways. As a graduate of the London Cordon Bleu, Nathalie incorporates classical techniques with local food, a feature of New Southern.